A Taste of Tradition: Cooking with Grandma Adell
There was a time in my life when I lived with four generations of women, where the kitchen was the heart of our home. Among them, Grandma Adell was my favorite person. She was an angelic woman—kind, loving, and God-fearing. She always passed her love into the food she cooked for us as a family, especially during our Sunday dinners, after church of course.
Soul food in our culture is more than just a meal; it’s a tradition that gathers families together, creating a sense of community and belonging. The preparation of these meals was an essential part of my upbringing, teaching me the values of patience, love, and family.
Grandma Adell would start her dinner on Saturday. Coming in from playing with my friends, I would often ask, “Grandma, what’s that smell?”
“It’s just tea boiling,” she would say. This is how I knew it was time to start getting dinner ready for tomorrow. Dinner in NC “ain’t” complete without a glass of iced tea. Grandma made sweet tea from boiling Lipton tea bags, water, and plenty of sugar. In a metal pitcher, it would sit in the fridge, getting ice cold and very tempting.
Sunday dinner was a weekly routine in the Mumford household, and I was always the helper. Grandma Adell would call me.
“Te’a, come help me clean these greens,” she would yell from the kitchen. She would be standing at the dual kitchen sink, picking fresh collard greens, breaking the stems, and checking them for worms. I would then take over, picking through the greens one by one, searching and rinsing them all. Grandma Adell would always put them in the washing machine on a delicate cycle, never taking a chance that the worms were hiding.
While the greens were washing, the smoked ham hocks would be boiling, filling the air with the smell of salted pork fat.
“Grandma, can I clean the chicken?” I would ask.
With the sharpest knife she had, she would cut open the thick plastic the whole chicken was in. She would bake it with the neck and gizzards all together. Turning on the water and checking the temperature.
“Yeah, make sure you get up under the skin,” she would say.
“Yes ma’am,” I replied, swabbing under the chicken skin. Giving it one more thorough rinse over, she would lay it in the roaster pan, massaging it with butter, adding apple cider vinegar and fresh garlic cloves. Grandma would season the chicken before it went in the oven. Adding the collard greens to the “pot liquor,” as she called the concoction, the greens would boil for hours on low until they were tender to her liking. The mixture of fresh garlic and vinegar pranced through the air, tickling my nose and forcing my stomach to growl.
“Nancy!” she would yell to my grandmother. “Can you go to the store? I am out of flour. I need that and buttermilk for the biscuits.” Nana would go with no hesitation. I would chuckle a little since she was the only person I knew who could tell my nana what to do.
Basting the chicken to make sure it’s not drying out, Adell was praised by the family for always creating a perfectly browned and tender bird. Grandma would take the golden-brown chicken out of the oven, placing it on the stove top. She would always give me the neck.
“How does it taste?” she’d ask.
“This is good, grandma,” I’d reply.
Grandma Adell would take the gizzards and make a masterpiece of giblet gravy in her cast iron frying pan. After the chicken and greens were done, she would employ me with the job of chopping the greens. Chopping the greens was a workout, chopping and twisting with every pound.
“Don’t chop it too fine, baby,” she would say, “we don’t want to make it mushy.”
Putting the food away before she headed to bed, dinner was mostly ready for after church on Sunday. After Sunday service, we’d come home. Jr., my nana’s Pomeranian, would be barking with such excitement as we entered.
“Go get out of those church clothes,” she would say when we got in. She put on the same floral snap button house robe. Uncle Cal and his family, Uncle June Bug and his family, my momma and siblings would always show up after the work was done, filling the house with laughter and conversation.
Grandma would knead the dough for the buttermilk biscuits to go in the oven, alongside the chicken as it warmed. Smelling the house of the soul food coming together, boiling white rice to perfection, and the biscuits rising, adding the temptation of fresh bread calling you like Bugs Bunny in a cartoon.
“Nancy and Niecy, fix them children plates,” she would say as she sat at the head of the table.
How grateful I was to be a kid in these moments. Sunday dinner is served: baked chicken, collard greens, rice and giblet gravy, and buttermilk biscuits. Soul food at its finest is also food for the soul. These are the times that molded my view on family and our time spent. Soul food gathers families in Black culture; it is the core of our traditions. This occasion is where we gather, share, and lean on each other for strength and comfort. Sunday dinner was always the day my village gathered to share time together.
The preparation of these meals was a labor of love, a testament to the importance of family and tradition. It was in these moments that I learned the true value of togetherness and the enduring power of food to bring us closer.
